
Of all of the places we visited during our Brittany trip, this was the strangest. This sketch was done in the evening after we had visited the chateau, mainly because the tours around the place were guided, you weren’t left alone by the guide, and you didn’t get long to stand around and admire this weird building, I photographed it and drew it up later on that evening, aren’t digital cameras great ?
This chateau has a wonderful history and looks like some children have built it using icing and toys from their toy box.
It was rebuilt in this style in the late 19th century by a very wealthy Russian Princess, Zenaide Narishkine, aunt of Tsar Nicholas II who had emigrated to France and married a Count from Brittany, when she saw his chateau she ordered it to be demolished and rebuilt in a style that suggests that she was under the influence of some amazing substances.
For instance the “thing” that you can see perched on the roof in my drawing is actually an iron statue of the Angel Gabriel blowing a trumpet, it has to be at least ten feet high but even it doesn’t dominate the skyline for at the other side of the roof is a huge stone bear gazing towards the North East and Russia.
This is the view from the back of the house, the front of the house is decorated with stone carvings depicting moons and stars, crowns and castles, the local stonemasons must have been smoking the same stuff as she did, it was probably the best commission that they ever did.
The couple died in the 1890’s with no heirs and the chateau was donated to the local Department of Finistere (the region of Brittany) and the local council turned it into a museum until 1957, part of the legal legacy being that the chateau and its contents were not to be dispersed – for nearly fifty years this was the case but over time the council sold off some of the land and some of the antiquities until in 1948, fresh from the war, a chap by the name of Felix Yusupov arrived from Russia claiming that he was the grandson of the old dear and wishing to reclaim his inheritance given that the council had reneged on the terms of the legacy.
The legal case lasted ten years and Felix was eventually awarded possession, at which point he decided that he didn’t want it after all and sold off most of the land and all of the house contents, then buggered off back to Russia. The houseĀ was thenĀ sold to a hotel company but they let it stand empty for 23 years as they had no means to renovate it.
In 1972 the local town mayor decided to help himself to a white stone chapel that stood in the grounds, he had it demolished and used the stone to build part of his new home nearby, how good is that, your local mayor travels the district seeking out derelict buildings to steal, just because he can.
Finally in 1987 the “great hurricane” that destroyed lots of Southern England (the soft southern nancies), also decimated the Chateau Keriolet, ripping off the roof and letting the rain destroy what remained of the inside of the building.
Only the kitchen survived and in 1988 its current owner bought the ruin and set about restoring it one room at a time, financed partly by the income from letting tourists look around.
The tour that we went on was supposed to have been with an English guide but she had gone home so we went around with a group of French people and the guide gave us a piece of paper with some English notes written on it. Most of the inside of the building is in that wonderful state of decay that cheap Hollywood horror movies revel in and although the tour was brief it was perfect in that there were no ropes to stand behind and no corny old paintings of ancestors that you weren’t interested in, in fact nearly all of the rooms were empty with joists and floorboards missing, it was like being guided around a building site, which made the experience even more unique.
I hope that one day we might return, its got to be the weirdest place I’ve ever been inside and I hope they haven’t spoiled it during the renovations.
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